Hanging Lake in Glenwood Springs

Back when I had made reservations for the Grand Canyon, I had also found a Groupon for a cost-effective overnight in Glenwood Springs.  Still eager to get downtime away from my demanding schedule and the busy city, we went for it.  I made arrangements just for one night, a quick jaunt to get away without having to take time off work.  As we neared the weekend, we decided that we didn't want to put too much pressure on ourselves for the weekend, but instead could take the opportunity to let the weekend unfold organically.  So we left late morning on Saturday the 24th, dropped the dog with family (thank you Jamie!!), and began the drive from Denver. 

Due to some infuriating traffic, we ended up having a bit of a delay from when we were able to get in.  No matter, we kept our cool with good music and conversation, and felt relieved when we arrived to our destination.  The Sunlight Lodge Bed & Breakfast is about 20-30 minutes south of the town-center of Glenwood Springs, tucked in near the Sunlight Mountain Ski Resort.  We were greeted warmly by Jason who manages the Lodge and were given a quick tour of the facility and then settled in.  Given the time we arrived and being tired, we decided just to lay low instead of trying to hike or do anything in particular.  In the basement of the B&B is the Lodge where they have a restaurant and pub, so we headed down.  We learned quickly that this is a locals hangout!  So with some beers and food, we enjoyed good company and some basketball.  It was a great little spot!  We had so much fun.  I would absolutely stay again!  The room wasn't glamorous but it sufficed, the Groupon was a great deal, the people were great, the food was good, the bed was comfortable enough, wifi was spotty at times but you know... that's not why we were there, ya know?  They had dogs in the bar, Chris got to watch the game, we got to chat with nice people... Sometimes just to belly up at the bar is really fun.  Overall, a beautiful stay, I look forward to finding myself up there again sometime.

The next morning we had a complimentary buffet breakfast and packed up.  We debated between going to the hot springs or hitting a trail.  After seeing a very full parking lot at the hot springs, we decided to head to Hanging Lake which is about 7 miles east of Glenwood Springs.  The website we looked at indicated that Hanging Lake was a hard hike during the summer months, but that the winter made it a difficult one.  With how warm the weather has been in Colorado recently, and with the Hanging Lake being a National Natural Landmark (one of only 14 in Colorado), we figured it would be worth it, and a toss-up as to the exact conditions of the trail...

We arrived around 10am, and we got one of the last few parking spots in the lot.  It's a fairly small lot, I think they do that on purpose to limit the amount of foot traffic to preserve the area (so my advice is to get there early if you want to do this one).  Knowing that the lake sits only a little over a mile up the trail, we packed relatively light to have water, trekking poles and a little food just in case.  About halfway up I was grateful for the trekking poles.  There was just enough snow on the ground, but it had been packed down by other hikers, warmed just enough by the sun to become slush, and cold enough to freeze over again.  There were portions of the trail that were completely dry particularly at the beginning, then it was a mix of mud, then slush, then ice, then mud, then ice... 

Cautious stepping was required for a good portion of the hike.  And it was steep with lots of switchbacks.  There are rocks and periodically you'll come across a bench if you need a rest.  There were portions of the hike when I felt like it was not so bad, and then others when I cursed my weight for being hard to lug up certain sections, getting passed by others and feeling like I couldn't keep up.  There was a specific point when Chris and I got to talking about how this kind of hiking is likely what we need as we prepare for the wedding in September.  The more we do this kind of hike, the easier they will get (right?), and the more our bodies will adapt (one can hope?).  I love the idea of thinking about how my body can slim down, getting svelte and finding more comfort in my body again.  As I put one foot in front of the other, my lungs burning at times, reminding me that while I've never had good lung capacity the 13 years of smoking didn't help (despite that I quite 5 years ago - go me!), I can't help but sift through my brain about what I can possibly do to get onto a better track with my health.  If only ice cream and chocolate can be part of my weight loss... I feel like I eat relatively healthy in general, but even so much as looking at a candy bar seems to add a little more jiggle to my sides.  Chris and I had talked about how we bounce between the healthy sides of ourselves and the "party" sides, moving between salads and portion control to chili fries, alcohol and sweets.  I want to get to a point where I have better balance, my waistline trimming, my muscles toning... Yet I feel I've been on this road to slim down for so long without much success.  To lose 30 pounds between now and the wedding seems a bit more than difficult...

Suddenly I looked up, and we were at the final push.  The path got steeper with hand-railing offering some support for the last leg.  It required channeling a bit of "billy-goat" in order to get up some of steep and jagged rocks, but once up them the lake appeared.

The water was a lovely, rich turquoise, the falls splattering melodically, the air crisp and fresh.

The entire setting seemed so picturesque! 

We then elected to go the extra bit up Spouting Rock just above the lake to see the waterfall that flows into Hanging Lake.  The short jaunt well worth it, and not difficult at all (especially compared to what we had just climbed up).  And while we were up there, we were the only people there.  We had this lovely waterfall to ourselves for a time. 

It was stunning.  I was even more grateful that we had hiked instead of going to the hot springs for a soak.  While I'm sure the hot springs could have been relaxing, there was something delightfully rewarding about getting to this lake and seeing the waterfall.

The hike down was easier, several times being able to use some of the ice to rather "skate" down, trekking poles providing balance.  We passed many more people starting to make their way up as we were coming down, and we kindly provided insight when asked of what they should expect and distances still to go, while also offering encouragement as to what was in store for them if they make it to the lake.  It was nice to be able to give such assurance to others.

We got back to the car, many cars circling the lot in hopes of getting into a parking spot.  Part of me felt badly, I hate being rushed but also know they are hopeful to get in to see this wonderful thing... I had to remind myself that I don't owe them anything, someone will get our parking spot and will hopefully enjoy the hike.  Regardless, it was nice to be back to the car around noon to begin the drive back to Denver, arriving back with still enough time to get ready for the next week.  Not a bad way to spend 24-hours to get away for a bit.

Grand Canyon February 2018

I was sad to realize that, while I had good intentions in 2017 of hiking more and spending time outdoors, aside from one camping trip for the 4th of July which didn't include much in the way of hikes, 2017 was spent busy with various other things.  As I work hard to complete my master's degree, I am stuck oscillating between demanding obligations, my life getting turned upside down to accommodate what is required for the final phase of this program, and daydreaming over what I want to experience.  My hiking boots came out minimally in 2017, my blog collecting dust at my lack of outdoor engagement all year.  I hope this changes in 2018.

Sitting in my living room one night earlier this year, I realized that I was feeling irritated all the time, unsettled and uneasy. I hadn't been sleeping much, felt a lot of stress regularly, and without tolerance or capacity for much outside of my small bubble.  I was feeling disconnected.  I looked at my fiance, a wave of sadness coming over me that I am feeling disconnected even from the person I share my life with!  I knew something was needed, and he started talking about how we needed to get out of town.  So began the Groupon and Google searching for getaway deals that could get us out of town and in nature for a bit.  As I searched, the Grand Canyon came to mind.  The drive can be done in a day, my fiance has never been and the only time I have gone was a short stop to take a couple pictures and leave.  Because February is still the off season, I was able to find some cheap deals including the Maswik Lodge for only $70 a night that sits in close proximity to the South Rim of the Canyon (the North Rim still being closed this time of year).  I booked it for three nights, not really giving Chris the opportunity to voice his opinion on it, I basically just told him we're going! 

I knew we had only really one opportunity on the calendar where we had room enough in our schedules to make it work, the last weekend in February was it.  My academia getting more intense with my capstone paper and presentation prep and gearing up for licensing exams.  It will be May before I can really have space in my schedule again to accommodate much for getaways.  We started the drive on Friday February 23rd, leaving Denver early morning in effort to arrive to the lodge in time for dinner.  During the drive we enjoyed music and conversation, the connection time being good for us.  I made big efforts to avoid talking too much about grad school, final assignments, the studying I still have to get to.  We kept wedding discussions limited.  This was time for just us.

I drove the first leg, driving through the very snowy Wolf Creek Pass since I-70 westbound was closed for getting out of Denver that weekend.  Initially in our drive I had done well to shave some time, but this pass caused us to add time because of the need to take it slower.  I was surprised how well my little Toyota Corolla did.  We knew we would be passing through winter weather at some point during the trek, but boy I was glad to get to the other side of it.  We swapped places when we needed to gas up.  We had loaded up a cooler with snacks and lunch options before leaving, the idea being to limit how much we ate out during the four day trip, which resulted in me making deli sandwiches for us while he drove which was a humorous feat - as the car bounced and pickle juice, crumbs and mayo got all over me, it was hard not to laugh, but we were determined to make as few stops as we could.  As we grew closer to the lodge, some winter weather greeting us again, we followed the GPS instructions, unaware of road closures ahead as we were heading toward the North Rim area of the Canyon.  We got flagged down by a caravan of other drivers heading in the other direction who told us that the road ahead was closed, a sense of defeat coming over us as we sat 45 minutes from where a bed awaited us, tired from 10 hours of driving.  We called the lodge and they confirmed that getting into the Canyon from the north was impossible and that we would have to drive to Flagstaff, 60 miles away from where we were, and then connect with a different route that would cause us to overshoot the Canyon and come up from the south to get there.  This excursion would add 3 more hours to our drive.  With no other choice, we made our way to Flagstaff, making note that any future road trips will also come with us checking road closures more deliberately before leaving.  We stopped for dinner in Flagstaff at Lumberyard Brewing Co, the taste of beer and fried mac-n-cheese bites being a welcomed treat to fortify us for the final leg.  It was 11pm before we were checking into the lodge.  (A quick warning to anyone looking to stay at one of these lodges down near the Canyon, signage is pretty poor throughout this little "Village Loop" so it was a bit difficult to find where we needed to go especially when it was so dark out.)

The next morning we took the morning slow, going to the cafeteria at the Maswik for breakfast.  Chris had read reviews that the food at the lodge was awful, but honestly it was about what I'd expect from cafeteria food.  It certainly wasn't fine dining, but it was edible and that was about what we needed.  We determined the plan for the day to walk along the South Rim Trail and see if we were up for hiking down into the Canyon since the Bright Angel trailhead was close by.  It was a lovely surprise to discover that our lodge was literally just a couple minutes walk up from the canyon.

We walked along the South Rim Trail starting at the Bright Angel trailhead and walked a total of 14 miles that day, looking out over the Canyon in wonderment, enjoying conversation as we walked.  We saw blue birds and ravens, the further away from the bus stops we ended up passing some deer and more wildlife that was willing to come out in the lesser populated areas.  It was amusing when we would come up on one of the stops along the bus route where tourists were grouped together getting their selfies and groupies and jumping photos to throw up on social medias.  Not dissimilar to my first time at the Canyon almost ten years ago, they weren't necessarily there to hike or experience the Canyon but to get the photos saying they were there and then go hang out in the lodge and collect souvenirs from the little gift shops.  I've always loved people watching, unique attire including bejeweled heels and pajama pants with wooden clogs made their appearance at the Canyon.  Despite it being the off-season and still winter there were a surprising amount of people there, though we were among the few actually determined to hike.  After our long day of walking this lovely, accessible, mostly paved trail, we ended with dinner at one of the restaurants in one of the lodges in the "Village Loop" that was at the Bright Angel Lodge, grateful to be sitting with the promise of food on the way.  Chris looked at me with a smile, noting that since we had 30,000 steps behind us, we could truly eat whatever we wanted and not have to feel guilty about it.  He ordered a beer and I got a glass of wine and we ordered soup to help us warm up, two pasta dishes to share, and bread pudding for dessert.  The quality of the food at this lodge restaurant far excelled in comparison to the cafeteria at our lodge, and the server was a sweet woman with a southern drawl who was very supportive in our food and beverage selections.  It was delightful.

We went back to the room and I think I got the best nights sleep I've had in a long time, my legs and abs sore, my camera full of shots from the Canyon, my future husband next to me.  We set the alarm for early enough to catch the sunrise over the Canyon that, while a very brisk morning, was stunning.

We got a little breakfast at the cafeteria again and brought books with us for a little reading and relaxation, no pressure to really get moving that morning since we had accomplished a lot of site seeing on Saturday.  We did agree that it would be great to try hiking down into the Canyon some, Chris having been eyeballing the trail while we were walking the South Rim, trying to discern about how long it would take and if there would be a way to get far enough to see the river.  With the Bright Angel Trailhead being so close we decided it was worth it to hike even if just a couple miles down.

 It was a great hike, not too intense when compared to some of the trails we've been on in Colorado.  There were switchbacks but they didn't seem too steep.  There was some snow and mud so I was glad to have trekking poles with us, though we quickly recognized the need for upgrading our trekking poles in the future, one of them actually breaking in half during the hike.  It was clear that folks had thought through when toilets might be needed along this trail since there really isn't a good private place to stop off when one might need to, because sure enough there are rest houses going down, and they managed to appear right around when they were needed.  So we stopped at the First House which is about 1.5 miles down, took care of business, snapped a couple photos, then continued the hike down stopping at the 3 Mile House for a lunch of deli sandwiches and trailmix, then hiked back up.  The switchbacks heading back up seemed a little more aggressive than when we had gone down, but were still not too bad overall.  Chris' pedometer logged that we went an equivalent of almost 80 flights of stairs according to the steepness of our hike, totaling a little over 6 miles roundtrip.  We stopped again at the lodge restaurant we had gone to the day before, this time hitting them near the end of their lunch hours.  The turkey burger (definitely a frozen patty reheated and thrown on a bun) wasn't nearly as fulfilling as the pasta dish from the night before, but we were still grateful for the meal.  I couldn't help but again feeling a bit amused looking around the room at those who were dining, many of which didn't look like they had even been outside that day.  I couldn't help but being proud of myself for the hiking we had done over two days. 

The next day we drove back, I-70 being opened again so we went up through Moab, discussing future roadtrips, ideas of camping down in the Grand Canyon the next trip down, how a jaunt back to Moab has been well overdue and how great it would be to explore more that is relatively close to us.  Getting the break away was a breath of fresh air, opened new and deeper conversations than we had been sharing recently, allowing stresses to take a breather.  I'm so grateful for the time away.